GROWING ORCHIDS
They seem to be everywhere - your grocery store, at home improvement and even big box discount stores - beautiful, colorful exotic orchids.
Perhaps you've bought one - and promptly killed it - and maybe kept it alive but were never successful in getting it to rebloom again...
Sound familiar? Well, come to meetings and peruse this website, come to our annual show, use the intereactive forum and learn from a group of passionate orchid growers who can show you not only to keep your orchid alive, but how to get it to thrive and rebloom. Today, orchids are the #1 house plant - more orchids are sold than even Christmas poinsettias and they almost outsell cut flowers. Yet, they are believed to be exotic, difficult to grow and keep alive. With just a few minutes basic instructions, anyone can keep your orchid alive, have it thrive and rebloom from once to several times a year!
Growing Orchids
Congratulations! You're probably reading this because you've just acquired a new orchid... or perhaps you've had orchids before, enjoyed them while they were in bloom but never knew how to care for them and you're here looking for answers.
The Sacramento Orchid Society (SOS) is dedicated to helping novices and experience growers alike. On this website you'll find a great deal of helpful information. If you take a moment to look to the left you'll see sub pages under this page "GROWING ORCHIDS". These sub pages include ORCHID CARE SHEETS, Glossary of common terms, Your First Orchid, What is an orchid? among others. Feel free to click on any of these and explore the world of orchid care.
You may also scroll down the below list of common questions and orchid care basics or feel free to visit our Bulletin Board. This is a bulletin board style forum where you can ask questions, upload photos and speak to other orchid enthusiasts, growers of all different experiences and members of the Sacramento Orchid Society.
You may wish to visit our monthly Meetings to learn more. Meetings are free to all guests and are very informative. If you join our society, you'll even receive a FREE orchid just for joining!
Welcome to the magical world of orchids!
The basics:
- Choose healthy orchids. Don't be tempted by the pretty blooms - look at the health of the plant. Yellow or brown leaves (more than one) or brown or black spots on the leaves or weak, wrinkled leaves are a sign of a sick plant (dead roots). Pick plants with firm leaves. If you plan on just keeping your plant while in bloom and not attempting to get it to rebloom, just throw it away when its done. If you plan on reblooming it, you can successfully, but there are a few basics, as follows:
- Only water your orchids in the morning! Never in the afternoon or at night! Avoid getting water on the leaves of the plant. You should never (indoors) "mist" an orchid's leaves - this usually does more harm than good!
- If you've bought your orchid from a big box, grocery or home improvement store, we'd highly recommend you repot it immediately! There's a good chance the medium(s) (soil) it is in has degraded and if the roots aren't rotten already, they may soon rot. Most orchids should be repotted when you see new root growth (new roots have a bright green end) or it is growing out of the pot or it has been more than 1 - 2 years. Generally, plants in moss should be repotted every year, while orchids in bark should be repotted every 1 - 2 years. Repotting a Phalaenopsis or moth orchid will not usually cause flower drop - they're tough.
- Keep water out of the "crown" of the plant (where the leaves connect on plants such as phalaenopsis). Water here, even for a short time, can kill your orchid. If you get water here, just tip the plant to the side, allowing it to drain or use a bit of paper towel to sop up the water or BLOW really hard! :)
- Give your plants plenty of indirect, filtered light. Avoid direct sun - for flowering, in the middle of the room is fine. Five feet away from even a bright window, however, is often too far away. Keep your orchids close (within one foot) of a bright, East facing window, or withing 2 feet of a South facing window. West facing windows are often too bright and hot but will work with some orchids - esp if a sheer cloth seperates the plants or they are placed a few feet away. With few exceptions a North facing window simply won't provide enought light for an orchid to successfully rebloom.
- Fertilize your plants "weakly weekly" with 1/4th the recommended dosage of any commercial orchid food. Fertilize 3 out of 4 waterings (just use plain water the 4th time to help wash out extra fertilzer).
- Use room temperature water (orchids don't like cold water).
- ONLY WATER WHEN YOUR ORCHID NEEDS WATER!! Most people kill their orchids by drowning it. Push your finger into the pot - if its moist - DO NOT WATER! Most common orchids (Phalaenopsis or Moth Orchids along with Lady Slipper-like Paphs usually like to stay evenly moist - do not allow them to dry out), however they DO NOT want to be soaking wet! When the medium is almost dry or is dry on the top 1/2 - 3/4th of the mix - you can water.
- DO NOT MIST your orchids - provide a tray of pebbles with water for added humidity but don't let the pots or roots sit in water. Additionally, other houseplants (especially ferns) placed near your orchids help provide humidy.
- Provide airflow - orchids LOVE airflow - ceiling or mounted fans are great - the more airflow that doesn't tip the plant over the better your orchids will love it! (with more airflow you may have to water more frequently)
- If your orchid isn't reblooming, and it is indoors, it may not be getting enough of a temperature difference from day to night OR the temperature may not be falling below 84 degrees during the day. For phalaenopsis orchids they need temperatures of 55-60 degrees at night with warmer daytime temperatures (below 84) for a week or more to initiate flower spikes. Usually this is needed sometime from late October to early December (anytime in November works!)
- For more information, visit our monthly meetings (open to everyone) or visit our online forum and ask questions!
Are orchids hard to grow?
No. Contrary to popular belief, orchids are not difficult to grow. Orchids just have a different set of cultural needs than most other houseplants or garden plants. Like any other type of plants, orchids need water, fertilizer, light and air. Orchids adapt well to the environment of the average home.
Do I need a greenhouse to grow orchids?
No. Many orchids thrive under normal household temperatures. For best results, provide nighttime temperatures of 60 to 65°F and daytime temperatures 75 to 85°F.
Other orchids, such as Cymbidiums, Miltonias and Odontoglossums, tend to prefer cool temperatures. For best results, provide nighttime temperatures of 50 to 55oF and daytime temperatures of 60 to 80oF. Place the plants near a cool window in the home. In temperate regions, the plants may be grown outside under a protected patio.
What is the easiest orchid to grow?
The answer to that question depends on whether you are looking for something to grow indoors or outdoors.
Phalaenopsis are among the easiest and most rewarding orchids to grow. An American Orchid Society demographic survey showed that Phalaenopsis have become America's favorite orchid. The plants adapt well to the environment of the home or office. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 tp 3 months, and on rare occasions, up to six months!
Odontoglossum and Oncidium intergeneric hybrids (often referred to as "intergenetic" by some growers) are comprised of a large group of orchids from many different genera. The Odontoglossum/Oncidium alliance is very popular among orchid growers due to their cultural flexibility and striking sprays of long-lasting flowers. The plants may be grown with relative ease in the home or on a sheltered patio.
For Outdoors, Cymbidium orchids offer a rewarding spray of flowers, often lasting months, with very little care. Perfect for the yard, they are easy to care for and beautiful.
Dozens of other orchids are also suitable for beginners, as well. These include miniature cattleyas, dendrobiums and Paphiopedilum orchids.
How long do the blooms on an orchid last?
The answer to this question depends upon the type of orchid in bloom. Some orchid flowers last only a day or two (or a night or two in some instances). Flowers on Cattleyas may last up to a month in bloom from the time that the bud opens. Whereas, Phalaenopsis and Cymbidium sprays will remain in bloom for 2 to 3 months or longer.
How often do orchids bloom?
The answer to this question depends upon the type of orchid. Some bloom once a year, others bloom several times a year and some even bloom continuously. Most of the most popular orchids, such as phalaenopsis typically bloom once a year (if cultural and light needs are met!)
Are orchids fragrant?
Some orchids are fragrant. The scents from fragrant orchid flowers are highly variable. Some are subtle and others are extremely strong. And range from fruity to flowery. Many of the orchids have familiar aromas such as chocolate, raspberry, coconut, lilac or citrus.
How often should I water my orchids?
Depending upon the temperature, orchids potted in bark should be watered about once or twice a week. During the summer, the plants may need to be watered every 4 to 5 days. You should follow this rule of thumb for watering: More heat and air movement, more water, less heat, less water.
Plants potted in New Zealand sphagnum moss should be water less often. Water plants once every 7 to 10 days.
Some orchids prefer to be kept on the moist side. This does not mean that the orchid like to be left in standing water. Try to water the plants early in the day, so that the foliage will be dry by nightfall
How often do I need to fertilize my orchids?
Orchids must be fertilized on a regular basis! There really is no right answer, nor is there a specific formula of orchid food. Everyone seems to have a different opinion. Generally, however, you can receive good results by using any common orchid fertilizer (try and avoid general plant fertilizers) diluted to 1/4 strength. "Water weakly, weekly" is a common phrase heard by experienced growers. In other words, dilute the fertilizer and do it more often - at every watering. Most growers recommend watering 3 out of 4 weeks with the diluted fertilizer then "skipping" the fourth week and just generously giving the plant a wash with regular water. This will help flush out extra salts and fertilizers.
Many experienced growers also realize that orchids have special cells on the underside of thier leaves (not the top, just the undersides!) that will soak up fertilizers. To take advantage of this, many growers use a foliar spray feeder (a spray bottle works great) to mist fertilizer under the plant's leaves once a month. Remember - only do this in the morning and make sure the leaves dry before nightfall! Generally "misting" the leaves does more harm than good, but in this instance as long as there is airflow, it will help you grow big beautiful orchids. Most fertilizers, especially those with micro nutrients work well.
What kind of soil do I need to grow orchids?
None. Orchids do not grow in soil. In the wild, most orchids are found high above the jungle floor, in the tree canopy. For best results, orchids should be grown either in New Zealand sphagnum moss, fine orchid bark mix or medium orchid bark Mix. Orchids must be grown in pots with good drainage. Soil is bad for the plants because it cuts off air circulation at the roots and blocks the drainage of water.
When is the best time to repot my orchids?
Ideally, orchids should be repotted immediately after flowering. Any plant that is potted in decomposed, packed bark should be repotted immediately.
Most orchids need to be repotted once every 1 to 2 years. The bark or moss that the orchids are grown in gradually deteriorates. If repotting is not done, the bark or moss become decomposed and packed down. Under these conditions, roots are not properly aerated, drainage becomes blocked (so there is too much standing moisture), and the plant eventually dies from asphyxiation and root rot.
There is not apparent sign of new growth. What am I doing wrong?
This may not be the right time in the plant's growth cycle for new growth. Do not attempt to force the plant with extra fertilizer or watering. This will not help the situation. In fact, such actions will have adverse effects on the plant. Be patient.
The plant refuses to flower. What is wrong with the plant?
Several possibilities may have occurred:
1) The plant may not be getting enough light. If this is the case, simply move the plant to a slightly brighter location, 2) The proper growth cycle is not being observed. Find out what time of year is the blooming period in the plant's natural growth cycle. This may simply be the wrong time of year to expect the plant to bloom, 3) Sometimes, if the plant was purchased as a first time blooming plant, it may not bloom the following year. Be patient. Once the plant is older it will bloom regularly. 4) If the plant is a Phalaenopsis, it may need to be chilled slightly in the late fall (usually in late October or early November. These plants need to have a cool period of ten days to several weeks where the temperatures drop to at least 50-55 degrees at night, with warmer days in order for the plant to produce a spike.
There is sap on my orchid. Should I be concerned?
No. It's normal for orchids such as Dendrobiums, Oncidiums and Cattleyas to produce honey on the flower stem. Mother nature built in the sap producing process to help the orchid attract insects for pollination. Orchids rely on insects to pollinate the flowers for the continuation of the species.
The leaves on my orchid turned yellow. Should I be concerned?
The answer to this question depends upon which leaves are involved. Yellowing of old leaves on backbulbs is a normal part of the aging process. Therefore, this should not be of concern.
However, yellowing of newer leaves is a sign of trouble. Orchids with yellow leaves are an indication that the plant is suffering from either too much light or insufficient feeding. Increase the shading and apply orchid nutrients as directed. Other causes of yellowing include loss of roots and stress due to low temperatures.
What should I do about the blacked area on the leaves of the plant?
Blackened area on leaves may be caused by either sunburn or bacterial or fungal disease.
The appearance of black areas on the surface of the leaves, following a hot sunny day may be the result of sunburn. Exposure to direct mid-afternoon sunlight during the late spring through early fall will scorch the leaves of some orchids. Increase the shading or move the plant to a less sunny location.
If the blackened area increases in size, this is an indication of bacterial or fungal disease. Cut off the diseased area with a sharp, sterile tool(i.e., razor blade or knife). Then treat the plant with a fungicide like Physan 20.
What causes the tip or ends of the leaves to become blackened?
Blackened leaf tips may be caused by hard water, overfeeding with orchid nutrients or fungal disease. Remember that the potting mix needs to be flushed out thoroughly with plain water in between feeding. Cut off any black tips on leaves to prevent the die -back from continuing to run back down the leaf. Use a sterilized pair of scissors.
The leaves on the plant are limp and there is soft growth at the base of the plant. What is happened?
The orchid bark mix or New Zealand sphagnum moss is waterlogged. Withhold water. Give the plant a week to dry out. Two possibilities may have occurred: 1) Orchids do not like to be left in standing water or 2) The time interval between watering is too short. For example, if the plant was watered every 7 days and became waterlogged, increase the time span in between watering to 10 days. Try to water the plants early in the day, so that the foliage will be dry by nightfall. To prevent bacterial and fungal disease, treat with Physan 20 once a month.
There are small reddish brown spots turning black on the leaves. What should I do?
This is an indication of a fungal infection. Fungal infections are usually the result of warm temperatures, high humidity and low light levels. Treat the plants with a systemic fungicide such as Phyton 27.
Where should I cut off the flower spike after the plant finishes blooming?
The answer to this question depends upon the type of orchid in question. Phalaenopsis plants may flower again for a second time. After the plant goes out of bloom, cut the stem right below the first flower on the spray. A new spray of flowers may emerge from the node below it. For all other orchids, cut off the old flower spike at the base of the plant.
What causes deformed flowers?
If a plant consistently produces deformed flowers year after year, the problem is genetic.
However, an occasional deformed flower may be caused either flower buds that were subjected to the stress of high temperature and low humidity; mechanical or chemical damage.
The new buds dropped off and the flower(s) wilted shortly after it opened. What happened?
Several factors will cause bud drop and flower wilting. The flower(s) may have been stressed by a sudden change in temperature. Low humidity is also a common reason. Another possibility is the exposure of the flowers to ethylene gas. Ripe fruits have been known to produce this type of gas. Try to keep fruits away from orchids in bud or bloom. If the plant is kept in the kitchen, beware of a possible gas leak from the stove.
If you received the plant as a gift, or purchased it in a grocery store - the plant may have been exposed to the ethylene gas (commonly found in apples and bananas) while at the store. Also, large chain stores often purchase orchids from large commercial growers in the Bay Area of California, and Sacramento's temperatures are different. As are the temperatures at the grocery store and your home. Don't panic! If taken care of, your orchid will bloom again - but it may be a year or more! Plants purchased at large box and grocery stores are often young plants pushed to their very limits of light and fertilizers and blooming takes so much out of them that they need a long rest before blooming again!
There are small black spots on the flowers. What should I do?
Black spots on flowers are usually caused by Botrytris, a fungus. The problem is caused by poor air circulation and too much moisture. The remedy is to increase air circulation and reduce the humidity.
There are lots of root on the outside of the pot. What should I do?
The cause of the problem is neglect and lack of repotting. Orchids grown in fine bark need to be repotted every year. Whereas, orchids grown in medium bark need to be repotted every two years. Simply repot the orchid and put the roots back into the pot.
A few of the root on the surface of the pot are still alive. However, most of the root inside the pot are dead. How can I stimulate the plant to produce more roots?
Dip the plant in Rootone (rooting hormone) or Dip~n Grow to help stimulate new root growth.
How can I get rid of the snails that are devouring my flowers and shredding up the new leaves on my plant?
Metaldehyde is an effective agent for eradication of slugs and snails. Sprinkle Slug-N-Snail granules on top of the pot. The Sacramento Orchid Society recommends SLUGGO, as it is safe for pets.
What is the best way to get rid of the aphids on my orchid?
X-CLUDE, encapsulated pyrethrum time-release insecticide is the most efficient method of pest control.
How can I get rid of the scales and spider mites on my plant?
Common pest associated with Cattleyas are scale and spider mites. X-CLUDE, encapsulated pyrethrum time-release insecticide or Neem Oil are the most efficient methods of pest control.
What is the best way to deal with bacterial and fungal disease on my orchids?
The most efficient method to treat bacterial and fungal disease is the regular use of a systemic agent such as Phyton 27. The agent will be absorbed by the roots of the plant and then carried throughout the plant. Once the Phyton 27 is absorbed by the plant it will remain in the plant~s system for months.
How can I prevent bacterial and fungal diseases?
Orchids benefit from fresh air circulation. In their natural habitat, orchids get excellent air circulation, which helps prevent bacterial and fungal diseases. Avoid cold drafts from coming in contact with the plants as well.
Try to water the plants early in the day, so that the foliage will be dry by nightfall. To prevent bacterial and fungal disease use Physan 20 once a month.
Q: How often should I water my orchid?
A: Many people make the mistake of assuming that since orchids are native to tropical rainforests, they must be watered several times a week. Unfortunately, watering this frequently will kill the roots of any orchid in short order. The general rule of thumb for orchids grown in the home is to water every 5 to 12 days, depending on the type of orchid, the temperature the plant is grown in, and the time of year. During the warm summer months when days are long, more frequent watering is required than in the cooler, shorter days of winter.
There are three basic types of orchids, as far as watering is concerned: those that should be kept evenly moist at all times; those that should be allowed to nearly dry out between waterings, except when in active growth; and those that should always be allowed to dry out a bit between waterings. The guidelines below list the major varieties of orchid in each type.
Varieties to keep evenly moist (not soggy or wet) at all times:
Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium, Odontoglossum,
Varieties to keep evenly moist during active growth, allowed to dry out between waterings when not:
Cattleya, Oncidium, Brassia, Dendrobium.
Varieties to keep nearly dry between waterings:
Phalaenopsis, Vanda, Ascocenda.
In a family of plants as large as Orchidaceae, there are, of course, exceptions to these rules. Always be sure to ask for watering instructions when you purchase a variety of orchid with which you are unfamiliar.
Q: How often should I be fertilizing my orchids?
A: Be sure to use an orchid food that is formulated for orchids and follow the instructions on the label. In general, most orchid fertilizers recommend usage once a month. Less frequent fertilizing may stunt growth and inhibit flowering; more frequent fertilizing may burn the roots and leaves and inhibit flowering. For complete step-by-step instructions on how to feed your orchids, click here.
Be sure to use an orchid food that is formulated for orchids and follow the label instructions. In general, most orchid fertilizers recommend use once a month. Less frequent fertilizing may stunt growth and inhibit flowering, more frequent fertilizing may burn the roots and leaves and inhibit flowering. For complete step-by-step instructions on how to feed your orchids, click here.
Q: What do I do when my phalaenopsis stops blooming?
A: If your plant has healthy, with thick, green leaves that have not become wrinkled or drooping, cut the old flower stem up high, just above a "node" and just below the lowest bloom. The plant will frequently send out a new flowering branch at that location. If your plant has thin, wilted leaves, or if the plant is small, with only 3-to-4-inch-long leaves, it is best to cut the flower stem all the way down, so that the plant does not weaken itself by blooming again right away. Carefully water and fertilize your plant to build it back into shape for future flowering on a brand-new stem. This can take up to a year or more, as Phalaenopsis, like most orchids, is a relatively slow-growing plant.
Q: I am growing my phalaenopsis orchid in the house but they never bloom. What can I do?
A: The most common reason for any orchid not to bloom is insufficient light. Move your phalaenopsis plants to a window where they will receive strong, but indirect light (near a south-facing window is ideal). You might also try lighting your plants with a fluorescent light fixture placed about 1-2 feet above the foliage. Give up to 12 hours of supplemental light per day. Phalaenopsis will also develop flower spikes in response to a cool period of about four weeks with night temperatures of 55F. After the cool treatment, raise the night temperature back to the normal 60-65F minimum. See if these changes to your growing conditions help to stimulate your plants to bloom.
Q: How do I know if my orchid is getting the proper amount of light?
A: One good indicator is leaf color. Generally speaking, the leaves should be bright green rather than dark green. Dark green indicates too little light while reddish green indicated too much light. Those orchids requiring higher light intensities, such as cattleyas, dendrobiums and oncidiums, should be placed in a south or west facing window, but be sure to protect the leaves from the hot mid-day sun with sheer curtains or move the plants back from the window on hot summer days. Miltonias, phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums prefer lower light intensities and should be located further away from the window or placed in a window facing east or north.
Q: The orchid in my window suddenly developed black blotches on the leaves. Is it sick
A: It sounds like your plant has a bad case of sunburn! Longer, brighter days can increase the light intensity in your window so that the leaves get too hot and burn. You need to move your plant back from the window or put up sheer curtains to help protect it from direct sunlight. As the light intensity decreases in the fall, move your plant closer to the window again. Frequently check their leaves and watch for any fading of their green color, especially on those parts of the leaf closest to the window. This is an early indication that they are being exposed to too much sun.
Q: How do I know if I need to re-pot?
A: A newly potted phalaenopsis should be able to remain in its growth media two years before repotting. When there are many, long roots over the edge of the pot, this plant has most likely been growing for several years since its last repotting. If your plant is not currently in bloom, you should repot now. Be sure to remove all dead roots that are usually dark-colored, soft and mushy. Sometimes they may be dry, with a fiber running through the middle of the root. Center the plant with all of its roots down in the pot and add moistened bark until the level of the bark is just below the bottom of the lower set of leaves. Wait a week before resuming your normal watering and fertilizing routine.
Q: My phalaenopsis has been in flower for quite a while and now it seems to be forming what looks like a new plant on the flower stem! Will it grow if I pot it and what type of soil is best?
A: Congratulations! With proper care you will have a new plant, identical in every way to your original phalaenopsis. Wait until the new plant has developed a strong little root system of its own, with two or three roots at least one to two inches long. Then, carefully cut the plantlet, called a keiki, from the flower stem and put it in a very small pot of seedling bark for its first potting. After a year or two, move up to medium-sized bark in a four to five inch pot. Alternatively, you can pot the keiki in special orchid sphagnum moss. Be sure to go light with the fertilizer for the first few months. Once the plant has established itself, as evidenced by increased leaf growth, start with full-strength fertilizing.
Q: I would like to try growing orchids under lights in my house. What type of light fixtures and bulbs do you recommend that I try?
A: Many hobbyists have been successful with just ordinary fluorescent lights. You can also buy the more expensive fluorescent plant lights that give off a broader spectrum of light. An inexpensive way to achieve similar results is to use one cool-white fluorescent to one warm-white fluorescent bulb. The cool-white bulb will give off more of the blue wavelengths of the visible spectrum while the warm-white gives the plants more of the red end of the spectrum. Such a broad spectrum of light helps assure better growing and blooming. Some people also add one incandescent bulb to enhance the red end of the spectrum but be sure you don't burn your plants with the heat given off by this type of bulb.
Q: My mother gave me an orchid that is called Dendrobium Phalaenopsis. I am confused. Is this a type of phalaenopsis and how do I care for it?
A: There are more than one thousand different species belonging to the genus Dendrobium. One species, Dendrobium phalaenopsis, has been frequently used to make hybrids. These hybrid orchids are noted for their upright, branching sprays of brightly colored flowers that resemble those of the genus Phalaenopsis. They basically prefer the same growing conditions as for phalaenopsis but dendrobiums will perform better in a brighter location in your home. Place them in a bright window, but without direct hot sun (south facing window is ideal). Sheer curtains will protect your plants from the burning rays. The ideal minimum night temperature is between 60-65F. The ideal day temperature is 75-85F. Phalaenopsis type dendrobiums like to have their potting medium dry out a bit between waterings.
Q: What causes the new growth on my miltonia (``pansy orchid") to be crinkled?
A: Crinkled leaves are an indicator that the plant received insufficient water while the new leaves were developing. This can be caused by either loss of roots due to keeping the growing media too wet, which has killed most of the roots, or by simply not enough water to an otherwise healthy root system. Miltonias prefer to have their roots constantly damp, but never soggy. Older growing media will tend to hold water for longer periods of time so be careful not to overwater. Miltonias also prefer lots of humidity, with 50-75% being the ideal amount. Light, morning misting of the foliage is helpful in hot, dry conditions but be sure to keep standing water out of the leaves or soft rot may develop, especially if there is poor air circulation around your plants.
Q: What is the difference between a terrestrial and an epiphytic orchid?
A: Terrestrial orchids live on the ground, usually in a water-retentive humus of rotting wood and leaves. These orchids need a constantly moist, but never soggy, medium in which to grow. Paphiopedilums and cymbidiums are examples. Epiphytic orchids live on the branches of other plants -- usually trees. They are not parasites -- they obtain no food from the trees on which they grow. Epiphytic orchids have "air-roots" which are accustomed to drying out in between periods of rain. These orchids need an open medium in which to grow and the roots should be allowed to become moderately dry between waterings. Cattleyas, vandas, phalaenopsis, and dendrobiums are common examples.
Q: What's the difference between a hybrid seedling and a meristem seedling?
A: A hybrid seedling is an orchid plant that has been produced by seed through the hybridization process. Two parent plants were used to produce the seed and the individual seedlings all have their own unique characteristics, like brothers and sisters in a family. A meristem seedling is a seedling that has been produced using the cloning process. Each "mericlone" plant has an identical genetic make-up and each meristem or mericlone plant will look exactly the same, like identical twins.
Q: What are the most common orchid pests?
A: Snails and slugs often hide in the potting media where they chew on young root tips; they also come out at night to chew on the leaves and stems. There are several insect pests that are common: Aphids (small sucking insects) and thrips (small chewing insects) attack tender new growth, flowers and buds. Scale insects form a brown or black crust on leaves and stems. Mealybugs also attack the leaves and stems forming a white cottony mass. Consult a local garden center for products to control these pests.